A Visit To Centralia
I dont know whether it's a Celtic character trait or just a personal foible but trainwrecks and disaster areas always hold me spellbound. So when I took the decision to migrate to the United States more than a decade ago I pondered my top ten "to visit" list. One of the locations near the top of that list was Mt St Helens. I got lucky there, it's only 40 miles north of Portland alongside I5 and I have visited many times over the last decade. Another location near the top of the list was Centralia P.A.. For anyone unfamiliar with the town and its incredible history there is a wealth of information below. This year on the way back from NAFOW in Scranton our return flight was booked from Harrisburg airport. Centralia is about 60 miles north of Harrisburg just off Highway 81.
As the pictures below clearly demonstrate Centralia is a ghost town. An underground fire has been burning in the anthracite seam below the town since 1962 and efforts to put it out were abandoned decades ago. Experts disagree on how long the subterranean conflagration will continue to rage but some estimates give it another 1000 years. Nearly 3000 people lived in Centralia in its heyday. According to the 2010 census there are now 10.
( You will need to click on the individual photos below to view the commentaries and it should be noted in passing that no visit to this fascinating corner of PA is complete without a visit to the Ashland Pioneer Tunnel Coal Mine & Steam Train )
For a brief introduction to the town and its history there is always the Wikipedia but the most authoritative account is undoubtedly The Day The Earth Caved In by Joan Quigley first published in 2007. In the prologue we learn that:-
"By 1980, Centralia boasted more than twenty-five hundred residents, most of whom had emigrated from Ireland, Wales, Germany and to an increasing extent from southern and eastern Europe."
Pictured below is the damage caused to Route 61 by the underground fire and an aerial panorama of the rerouted highway after attempts to maintain the old road were abandoned in 1993.
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#ccf; text-align: right; padding-right: 0.4em; width: 15%; font-weight: bold;"> Description | Panoramic view of Route 61 through Centralia, PA |
#ccf; text-align: right; padding-right: 0.4em; width: 15%; font-weight: bold;"> Date | 26 March 2008 |
#ccf; text-align: right; padding-right: 0.4em; width: 15%; font-weight: bold;"> Source | Own work |
#ccf; text-align: right; padding-right: 0.4em; width: 15%; font-weight: bold;"> Author |
Here is a short video documentary about the fire, its aftermath and its effect on local residents:-
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I've driven through the area at night a few times, and the glow from the fires peeping through holes in the ground is eerie to say the least. Though it is quite close (about an hour from home), I've never really delved into the history - something to put on the bucket list.
This recent BBC documentary is of interest too. I leave it to you to decide what you make of the views of the 'holdouts'.
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Hi Pembroke
Many thanks for the links.....I will certainly check them out. Meanwhile I will set up the gmail collab doc we discussed some time this week. Things will be a little slow at first because we have 5 weeks of frantic preparation for the West Coast Eisteddfod ahead of us BUT we will get in to full swing soon after that.
Diolch
Ceri
HI Ceri,
Good to meet you in Scranton.
I have also been intrigued by the Molly Maguires. If you ever get back to PA you must visit the town called Jim Thorpe. That is where many of them were jailed and hung. I visited this museum in the old jail two years ago. It was as spooky as the web sites below indicate. So interesting to learn the histories of my proletariat Celtic-kin.
http://theoldjailmuseum.com/ghosts.html Molly Maguires are still haunting PA
http://www.weirdus.com/states/pennsylvania/unexplained_phenomena/carbon_county_jail_handprint/index.php Mysterious Handprint of and innocent accused
Hi Fiona
Many thanks for commenting. I must admit I was not aware of the Rea case although anything to do with the Molly Maguires fascinates me. I found a few links and will research the case further http://library.bloomu.edu/Archives/SC/MollieMaguires/mollieindex.htm Perhaps you can suggest some alternative sources?
I am reading The Day The Earth Caved In at the moment. It is always tempting ( and so much more satisfying ) when reading or writing about a disaster like this to be able to point a finger at an easily identifiable culprit. But it seems that in the case of the Centralia fire there is no clear villain.It appears that it was a terrible and tragic mess the worst effects of which might have been mitigated if culpability and a consequent source of disaster funding had been established in a timely fashion. What is not entirely clear is who should have paid , when and precisely how much. Would you agree or am I being naive?
p.s. Do you know, or is there any way of establishing, what percentage of the population were of Welsh heritage?
Ceri,
I wish i'd known of your interest in going to Centralia! I've been trolling it's history for the past 20 years, on and off. When I first came to America, I drove through Centralia to visit a friend, and became fascinated by it's story. It was still inhabited a little then, and there was still one church (although de-consecrated). Centralia has an interesting history, most particularly the story of the murder of Alexander Rea, Supposedly by the Mollies. (Although his great grandson Alec always said that he didn't think Rea's murder was political, but a purely bumbled attempt at robbery).
Very droll
One of the people we asked for directions was a kid in Centralia when the federal government finally tore down the town and got the people out. First we drove through, looking for it, then we realized that we were dring past block obscured by vegetation, sidewalks, spaces where houses and driveways used to be, all reclaimed by trees and underbrush.
Some of the pix are from a coal mine tour in Ashland, the town next over from Centralia. There's exhibits outside on Centralia and the disaster, a gift shop where we got the book, and a tour of the mine, which wasn't happening when we were there but it was interesting and I'd love to go back and do the tour: http://www.pioneertunnel.com/home.shtml