Richard P.C. Smith


 

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Crossing the Cambrian Mountains.

user image 2013-09-11
By: Richard P.C. Smith
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Yesterday I (Cambrian Safaris) was asked by someone who wanted to write something for Powys County Council to suggest some examples of 'hidden gems' along the boundary of Powys / Ceredigion in the Cambrian Mountains. This was my answer.

My perspective is more from the Ceredigion side but one of the problems with promoting the Cambrian Mountains is the fact that while a large proportion of the wilderness its self is in Ceredigion, its always been difficult getting people each side of the mountains to work together. Ceredigion is too coastal orientated, Powys isn't interested in half of the Cambrian Mountains because its in Ceredigion.

Historicity the Mountains were quite a barrier to communication, I used to talk at Llywernog Silver lead mine about how it would have been a bit like the Wild West for people coming here for the fist time hundreds of years ago. I think its still like that now for some, unpronounceable place names, narrow roads they dare not venture along, - the unknown in general.

If you travel from England into Wales and across Powys, there is a great Geological change, where ever you enter Wales you are suddenly surrounded by Hills, but to travel from Powys into Ceredigion you really have to mount an expedition across the mountains.

The western boundary of Powys - certainly where it borders Ceredigion, is very much hidden in the heart of the hills. Where it comes down to the coast near Machynlleth, people travelling along the A487 must be aware they are squeezed between the mountains and the sea. If you turn in land anywhere along that stretch, the roads are tiny.

Travelling the A44 to Aberystwyth, you climb as high as the mountain passes in the Lake district, passing from the Upper Wye valley at Eisteddfa Gurig the road passes through a narrow gap as if into another world, the bends on the way down to Dyffryn Castell giving dramatic views of a new valley, then on through Ponterwyd and past Bwlch Nant Y Arian where there is a fabulous view to the coast.

If you take the old coach road from Kington to Aberystwyth, between Rhayader and Devils Bridge you climb to 1600 feet with views of the Arans and much of Northern Powys, you drop into the upper wilderness of the Elan Valley and again, there is a tight pass into the upper Ystwyth Valley as you enter Ceredigion. The Ystwyth changes character at almost every turn in the road, magic around every corner. (Part 2 of my trip up the Ystwyth is coming soon!) Over the hill and past "The Arch' there are views to the sea and Aberystwyth.

If you head west from Builth Wells on the Main Trunk road which heads for Llandovery, only a few people will turn off at Beulah and follow in the footsteps of the Drovers returning to Ceredigion. The Abergwesyn Mountain road is 20 miles or so of single track road, starting off up thebeautifulIrfon Valley with Oak woodlands typical of many steep sided valleys in mid Wales and then climbing the 'Dev ils staircase" into the forestry, and plunging down in to the mighty Towi valley, turn left here for the spectacular Llyn Brianne reservoir, or right - if you have a very capable 4x4 - to follow the famous 'Strata Florida' green lane (rough track) to the monastery of that name. The regular road climbs 2 more summits, reaching over 1,500 feet, with views to the Brecon Beacons, before plunging down to Tregaron in the Teifi Vally;

Heading out of the mountains towards Tregaron, here the Drovers would be nearly home.

Skirting the south of the Cambrian Mountains, roads from Llandovery and Llanwrda head for Lampeter, passing the Dolaucothi Gold Mines. Its possible to explore the lower Towi valley up to Llyn Brianne and a variety of roads from the upper Cothi valley over to Llanddewi Brefi and the Teifi Valley.

For me, the greatest 'hidden gem' is the diversity of Landscape and the regularity with which the view changes, the appearance of the Landscape changes. For those who venture west, the reward is the surprise around the next corner.

Its not Just about specific places, there are favourite spots of course, but visitors could waste a lot of time trying to find specific locations and miss some of the hidden gems along the way and thestories to go with the drama of the scenery.

Mid Wales has a huge amount to offer, but the Cambrian Mountains don't have the same profile and image for promotion as the better known National Park areas in the North and South of Wales.

Ceri Shaw
09/12/13 09:57:53PM @ceri-shaw:

Gwych! Thought I'd take the liberty of adding a YouTube vid of Strata Florida made and narrated by author and AmeriCymru member Sarah Woodbury:-


Richard P.C. Smith
09/12/13 09:51:01PM @richard-pc-smith:

Its only a couple of miles off so its possible to call there if people want to!


Ceri Shaw
09/11/13 04:11:50PM @ceri-shaw:

Diolch for posting Richard....does your tour with Cambrian Safaris take in Strata Florida Abbey?