During the Iron Age and Roman Era, the Ordovices tribe lived in what is now south Clwyd and south Gwynedd in North Wales. In addition to parts of Clwyd and Gwynedd, the Ordovices tribes’ territory extended into parts of Hereford, Worcester, and western Shropshire in what is now England. They were great warriors and nearly wiped out an entire Roman regiment. However, even these brave fighters wouldn’t escape Rome’s organized military force by the end.
The Iron Age for Wales spans from 800 BC to 48 AD. During this time, Celtic tribal societies occupied the island of Britain. No king or chieftain ever organized the tribes under a single ruler. Additionally, they didn’t always get along or work well together—facts that didn’t improve matters when Roman troops first stepped foot on British soil in 43 AD.
To understand the Ordovices and what life was like at the time, we need to take a step back and look at how different things were in the British Isles when the Romans invaded. The Celtic countries of Ireland, Scotland, Cornwall, the Isle of Man, Brittany, and Wales as we know them today didn’t exist. If you asked a tribesman if he spoke Welsh, he wouldn’t have known what you meant. Members of the Ordovices tribe spoke Brythonic, a branch of the Insular Celtic language. It would one day give us Cymraeg, but not for another 500 years.
England, on the southeast side of the island, didn’t exist yet, either. The Anglo-Saxon tribes didn’t establish dominance over the land that became England until the 5th and 6th centuries after the Romans left. In fact, England wouldn’t officially become a kingdom until 927 AD. In other words, to conquer Britain, the Romans had to fight their way through screaming, ax-wielding Celts from one end of the island to the other. It wasn’t easy. The Ordovices were one of the tribes who made sure of that.
What is the Meaning of “Ordovices?”
The word “Ordovices” was the Latin name for the Celtic tribe. While we can be sure the Celts didn’t refer to themselves in Latin, various ideas exist about their real name and what it meant.
The Celtic word “ordo” shares a relationship with the word for “hammer” in modern Welsh, which is “gordd.” “Ordo-wik” in Celtic could mean “hammer fighters” as a tribal name (the literal translation is “hammer fight”).
There is also another meaning of “ordo,” which is a variation of the Common Celtic word “ard,” which means “high.” The Welsh word “gwych” comes from Brythonic and means “brave” or “energetic.” The words together could have formed a Brythonic name, “Ordogwych.” Its meaning could have been “brave highlanders” since the Ordovices lived in the mountains in North Wales. It’s hard to be sure since there were likely different dialects of Brythonic, just as there are different dialects of modern Welsh today.
Another idea comes from the name given to a small village in North Wales: “Dinorag.” The Welsh historian Sir John Edward Lloyd suggested that the proper name of the Ordovices has been retained as the word part “-orwig” or “-orweg” in the name of the hillfort Dinas Dinorwig for which the village is named. It means “Fort of the Ordovices.”
How Do You Pronounce “Ordovices?”
For the Ordovices pronunciation, in English, you say the word “Ordovices” like this: “OR-doe-visses,” with the stress on the first syllable.
The Ordovices Tribe: Life in Ancient Celtic Britain
The Ordovices lived in and around heavily defended hillforts. Hillforts were well-fortified settlements built on top of hills or other advantageous positions—often on hills or promontories, but not always. They enclosed the hillforts by a high wall. This wall was often stone on the bottom half, wooden on the top, and wide enough for a man to walk on. In addition to needing good visibility, guards needed to be able to move to and fro while keeping watch. While many Iron Age Celts, like the Ordovices tribe, built hillforts, peoples in the earlier Bronze Age sometimes created them as well. We also see hillfort ruins from the Middle Ages.
Within these well-guarded settlements, people lived inside stone or wooden roundhouses with straw or reed-thatched roofs, depending on the environment. They sealed the walls of their homes with waddle and daub, a mixture of mud and sticks. The tribal chieftain and his family lived in the largest house or building within the hillfort. Some tribe members also lived outside the hillfort near their fields or with their herds of animals. However, they were still relatively close by and could seek shelter within the gate if trouble arose. The Forts of Celtic Britain by Angus Konstam goes into Celtic settlements in detail.
The Celts were highly skilled metalworkers, and having iron meant better tools and weapons. Strong tools made farming more manageable, and iron weapons meant better defense. In Iron Age villages, it was common for people to work as carpenters, potters, and metalworkers. There was often a large building inside a hillfort (a “factory” of sorts) with one or more forges where craftspeople smelted iron and other metals to make necessary items.
The Ordovices and the Romans
Of the Celtic tribes that the Roman Empire had to deal with, the Ordovices put up the biggest fight besides the Silures. When Rome invaded, the Ordovices fought back with everything they had. They refused to submit tamely to Roman rule. When Caratacus (Caradog) came to their aid and led the fight, this Celtic tribe only became more unruly.
Caratacus was a chieftain who had come from the Catuvellauni tribe in what is now Herefordshire, north of the River Thames. He and his warriors had been fighting against Rome for many years. However, after defeat, he was exiled from his lands and went to help the Ordovices and the Silures. Unfortunately, after eight years of fighting the Romans, they defeated him in 50 AD. Although he escaped death that day, Queen Cartimandua betrayed him and gave his whereabouts to the Romans.
Governor Publius Ostorius Scapula captured Caratacus and sent him to Rome. He was allowed an audience with Emperor Claudius. The great tribal chieftain told the emperor that it was only right that he should fight for his people and lands. He stated his case, not begging, pleading, or bowing, even though he knew Scapula would likely execute him. The emperor was so impressed that he let Caratacus go. The warrior king was now exiled from Britain but was allowed to live out the rest of his life in Rome.
The Fight Continues
Not about to give up, the Ordovices continued fighting and resisting the Romans for a remarkable twenty-eight years. In 77 AD, just before the Roman Governor Agricola came to power, the Ordovices won a great victory. They nearly wiped out an entire Roman cavalry regiment stationed in their territory.
Agricola regarded this as a blatant act of war. In 78 AD, he assembled a force of veterans and additional troops and marched into the Ordovices’ land in North Wales. With Agricola’s more organized soldiers and warfare methods, he and his men nearly wiped out the entire tribe. The battle may have occurred at or near Dinas Dinorag, the location of the Ordovices hillfort.
Following this, Agricola and his troops are said to have gone to Ynys Môn (Isle of Anglesey). One tactic Agricola may have employed is taking Batavian soldiers as his auxiliary troops. These Germanic people who used to live in what is now the Netherlands had particular seafaring skills. They were accustomed to swimming alongside their horses in their armor. It is said that Agricola and his soldiers then invaded Ynys Môn and destroyed the Druid stronghold there.
Where Did the Ordovices Come From?
The Ordovices tribe’s history traces back to European Celts, who migrated to Britain from the continent as early as 1,000 BC and ended their migration as late as 100 BC. By the time the Roman Empire sent troops to the island, the Ordovices had well established themselves in North Wales.
What Celtic Tribes Were in Wales?
The Ordovices, Silures, Deceangli, Gangani, and Demetae were the five ancient Celtic tribes living in Cymru during the Iron Age. The Deceangli tribe is believed to be an offshoot of the Gangani tribe. The Deceangli and Gangani share a connection to the Irish Concani, a seafaring tribe that traveled to Wales by boat.
The Demetae tribe was peaceable and didn’t resist Roman rule like the Ordovices. They were given citizenship status and absorbed into Rome’s administration.
Ordovices Tribes Facts at a Glance
The Ordovices were a Celtic tribe who lived in ancient North Wales and parts of western England. Their lands were bordered by the Silures to the north and the Deceangli to the south.
How long did the Ordovices fight the Romans? They fought the might of Rome for approximately 30 years, from 48 to 78 AD. (Rome invaded Britain in 43 AD but didn’t reach Wales until 48 AD.) One of the main ways they could hold out so long was through guerrilla warfare.
After Agricola defeated the Ordovices once and for all, he incorporated the tribe into the Roman province of Brittania Major. Their lands became a tribal administrative district.
Some Celtic tribes, like the Dematae, were more peaceful and didn’t want to go toe to toe in battle with the highly organized Romans. The Orodovices, however, were one of the warlike tribes of Wales. They shared this with the Silures, the Gangani, and the Deceangli.
It took the Ordovices until the 3rd century AD to recover their numbers after their defeat at Dinas Dinorag by Agricola, if, in fact, that location is where the final battle occurred.
Cymru will never forget these brave Celts who had true fighting spirit.
Round barrows, Bronze Age burial sites called “cairns” in Scotland, Ireland, and Wales, are ancient graves their creators covered with a mound of earth. There are two types of barrows: long and round.
Why are round barrows, Bronze Age burial mounds, often referred to as “cairns” in Scotland, Ireland, and Wales—and is there any difference? The terms “barrow” and “cairn” are sometimes used interchangeably, but they can have different meanings. A barrow is a burial mound from ancient times. The word “barrow” comes from the Old English word “beorg.” Beorg originates from Germanic and is related to the German word “berg,” meaning “hill” or “mountain.
A “cairn” is a mound of stones used to cover a grave, as a landmark, or as a memorial. The word “cairn” comes from Scottish Gaelic “carn,” which means “pile of stones.” The Welsh word for this is also “carn.” Often, cairns were placed over burial mounds, but not always. They were sometimes made symbolically. Cairns were often used to cover burials where the soil was rocky, or digging a deep grave, such as in mountainous regions, would have been difficult or impossible.
The etymology of the words “barrow” and “cairn” is one of the reasons ancient burial mounds in England are referred to as “barrows.” In the Celtic countries like Cymru (Wales), which this article will focus on, gravesites covered with stones are called “cairns.” The word “cairn” can refer to the grave, the pile of stones, or both. However, there are still barrows in Wales (the same or similar constructions you’d find in England), so we’ll use both terms as appropriate.
Wales’ Round Barrows: Meaning and Design
What is a round barrow? A round barrow is a hill-shaped burial mound. In Wales, the Beaker Folk of the Bronze Age used this method to bury their dead. However, round barrows were built from the late Neolithic to the beginning of the Iron Age, with the majority dating to the Bronze Age. You can also find tens of thousands of round barrows in Western Europe, the Americas, and elsewhere.
Besides being called “cairns,” burial sites in Wales can be called by other terms depending on the structure of the grave. For instance, a “cromlech” is a megalithic tomb built of several large upright stones supporting a large, flatter capstone. After being built, the structure was then covered over with earth. Sometimes, the builders also covered the earth with a cairn. So, there’s also an example of how words like “cairn,” “barrow,” and “grave” could get used interchangeably.
Prehistoric peoples constructed two types of barrows: long barrows and round barrows. Long barrows are elongated grave mounds. They were usually built of only earth or a combination of earth with wood or stone. Neolithic people of the earliest agricultural communities built these types of barrow from about 3,800 – 3,500 BC. Some long barrows are chambered, while others are not. Round barrows are spherical and were built in the Bronze Age from about 2,000 – 1,500 BC. The Cwm Bwch Barrows in Powys, South Wales, are an example of this type. We’ll focus on round barrows: Bronze Age Wales’ windows into this intriguing historical time.
Round Barrows Bronze Age Facts
Ancient societies built round barrows to bury their dead. These barrows appear throughout Western Europe, the British Isles, and other parts of the world, such as the Americas.
Burial practices changed during the transition from the Neolithic Age to the Bronze Age. While in the Stone Age, people built long chambered tombs (long barrows), in the Bronze Age, they abandoned this funeral style and buried their dead in round barrows.
You may also see a round barrow referred to as a “tumulus (plural “tumuli),” as they were called on early maps. The word tumulus is from Middle English, which comes from Latin and means a human-created mound or small hill. It especially refers to an ancient grave.
Round barrow tombs are divided into five shapes: bell, saucer, pond, bowl, and disc.
Who Built the Round Barrows in Wales?
The Beaker People (also “Beaker Folk” or the “Beakers”) were the builders of the round barrows dotting the landscape of the British Isles. These ancient tribal people are so named because of the bell-shaped pottery they made. They buried their dead along with their beakers (the pottery) in the round barrows and similar structures.
Sometimes, the Beaker Folk buried one individual alone in the grave, probably a tribal chieftain or other significant person. At other times, they buried many people together. Excavations across the British Isles show that no specific burial practice remained constant—it varied by region and tribe.
Older Than Stonehenge
Long barrows, and some round barrows as well, actually predate Stonehenge, the ironic prehistoric structure on Salisbury Plain in Wiltshire, England. Builders constructed the massive stone circle in several stages spanning 1,500 years from the Neolithic Period into the early Bronze Age. Stonehenge’s builders obtained its bluestones (spotted dolerite) from quarries in the Preseli Mountains in Southwest Wales. Many other stones used in the megalith’s construction were also obtained from Wales.
Where Can I Find Round Barrows in Wales?
Here are some sites of round barrows tombs from Bronze Age Wales you might like to visit:
Beacon Hill Round Barrows in Beguildy (Bugeildy), Powys, South Wales. This site contains four barrows in total, dating to the Bronze Age between 2,300 and 800 BC.
You can visit the Cwm Bwch Barrows, also in Powys. Two round barrows are situated on a high point of land overlooking the Radnor Forest. A third barrow, Cwm Bwch III, is a separate barrow on the western side of the valley (Cwm Bwch) that has a fence passing through it.
A famous burial mound is Bryn yr Ellyllon, near Flintshire, in North Wales. The name translates as “The Hill of the Goblins.” Now that you know that, who could blame you for wanting to visit? The site was a literal treasure trove that produced the famous solid-gold artifact, the Mold Gold Cape, and many others. Among the finds were stone tools, pottery fragments, and vessels filled with crematory remains. The round barrow dates back nearly four thousand years to 1,900 – 1,600 BC.
There are also many cairns in the upland areas surrounding the Cynon Valley. To the north of Hirwaun, you’ll find several on Mynydd Y Glog. Many of these round barrows overlaid with cairns were believed to be built on the hills because of their prominent positions overlooking the valley.
You can find a round barrow at the summit of Picws Du in the Black Mountain Range (also called the Western Beacons). It’s one of many you’ll find in Brecon Beacons National Park (Bannau Brycheiniog).
A cromlech is a megalithic tomb in Wales. It’s constructed of several standing stones placed vertically and one large, flat capstone placed on top. This structure was then covered with earth, often leaving an opening to serve as a door. Some cromlechs, like Bryn Cader Faner, have a narrow passage made of stone leading to the inner chamber.
From the blurb:
Following the pattern of his previous books about northern Wales’ prehistoric artefacts, the standing stones and the hillforts, Michael Senior now deals in a similar way with the earliest of them all—the burial chambers and cairn burials—by setting them in their universal contexts, then tracing the origin of the forms, as well as dealing with the examples of them here in detail.
The Beaker Folk is a very detailed account of the people and their way of life. While it may not be for everyone (not for the casual reader, for instance), ancient history enthusiasts will find themselves in their element between these pages. You can also read about the Beaker People in the post Ancient Welsh People .
Neolithic and Bronze Age Funerary and Ritual Practices in Wales describes how Neolithic burial grounds were studied and how funerary practices changed with the construction of round barrows, Bronze Age Wales’ preferred method of interment. The Prehistoric Society has also provided a comprehensive review of the book here .
This book gathers, for the first time, all the burial and funeral practices in Wales from the middle of the Neolithic Age until the point that the Middle Bronze Age ended (3600-1200 BC) into one complete volume. It is the first to offer a modern summary of monument forms and burial practices in Neolithic and Bronze Age Wales. The book provides a thorough overview of all human bone deposits (both cremation and burial) from this period. It includes the analysis of over 250 human bone deposits, with new insights and interpretations. The book also discusses current debates on the changing nature and importance of burial rites in later prehistory.
The Beaker Folk of the Bronze Age may be gone, but they left us an incredible wealth of information about their way of life. For more information on notable sites from this period, visit Cadw , Wales’ historic preservation service.
Are the Welsh Celtic or Gaelic? “Celtic” refers to a diverse group of tribal societies with a shared language that once occupied much of Europe. “Gaelic,” on the other hand, is a subdivision of the Celtic family of languages that evolved into Irish, Scottish Gaelic, and Manx.
Are the Welsh Celtic or Gaelic? When we speak of Celtic and Gaelic, it’s important to understand that the terms are related but not interchangeable. “Celtic” refers to the language and culture of a tribal people who originated in central Europe as early as 1200 BC. They spread across Europe, Spain, Germany, France, and the British Isles. The common language, in particular, is what classifies them. Beyond that, a single ruler or group never unified the tribes, and each society was different, although they did hold some similar customs and religious beliefs. Even these, however, varied from tribe to tribe.
The Celtic language is separated into two main branches: Continental Celtic and Insular Celtic. As the names suggest, Continental Celtic was spoken by people who lived in central Europe (on the continent). The Celtiberians, the Gauls, and the Galatians also spoke the language. Insular Celtic was spoken by the people who migrated to the British Isles.
Insular Celtic is further divided into two branches: Goidelic (or Gaelic) and Brythonic (or British). Goidelic evolved into Irish Gaelic, Scottish Gaelic, and Manx Gaelic. The shortened terms are Irish, Scottish Gaelic, and Manx. The Brythonic branch evolved into the languages of Breton, Cornish, and Welsh. So, the Welsh are Celtic but not Gaelic. “Gaelic” refers to the culture or the language spoken, and it is not the language of Wales.
As mentioned above, in answer to the question, “Are the Welsh Celtic or Gaelic?” the Welsh are Celtic but not Gaelic. “Gaelic” refers to the Goidelic branch of Insular Celtic that evolved into Irish, Scottish, and Manx. The word “Gaelic” is pronounced “Gal-ick” (like “gal” as in “galaxy”) and not “gale-ick” (like “gale” as in a gale of wind). The Welsh people speak Cymraeg (Welsh), which came from the Brythonic branch of Insular Celtic. To further clarify this, you could say that Gaelic is always Celtic, but Celtic isn’t always Gaelic. It depends on the language the person speaks.
Other commonly asked questions are: 1. “Are the Welsh Celtic?” and 2. “Is Welsh Celtic?” The answer to the first question is yes, as the DNA of the Welsh people traces back to the tribal societies of Europe, which held the ancestral Celtic language in common. The second question refers to the Welsh language itself. Yes, Welsh is a Celtic language from the Brythonic language group of Insular Celtic.
What Are the Six Celtic Languages?
Six Celtic languages are still spoken today—the modern Celtic languages. These are Irish, Scottish Gaelic, Manx, Breton, Cornish, and Welsh . All six Celtic languages are referred to as “living, “meaning they are still spoken. Irish, Scottish Gaelic, Welsh, and Breton have been continuously spoken. Manx and Cornish had died out, but thanks to a revival, they are now spoken again as a second language by several thousand people. Of all the Celtic languages, Welsh is the only one not considered endangered by UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization). In fact, from 2008 to 2020, the number of Welsh speakers has actually increased. In an article published by the BBC in 2020, a group of scientists from New Zealand say that within 300 years, 74% of the Welsh population will be able to speak and write Welsh.
Where Are the Celtic Languages Spoken?
Irish is spoken mainly in Ireland and Northern Ireland. However, Irish speakers are elsewhere in the UK, the US, Canada, and Australia.
Scottish Gaelic is the Celtic language spoken along the northwest coast of Scotland, the highlands, and the Hebrides Islands. Speakers can also be found in Australia, the US, and Canada (mainly Nova Scotia). Another language, separate from Gaelic, called “Scots,” evolved in the Middle Ages in the lowlands of Scotland. Scots is more similar to English, as it’s a Germanic language that developed from the Angles’ tongue. Scots has four different regional dialects.
About 200,000 people speak Breton in Brittany in northwestern France.
Manx is spoken on the Isle of Man. Since revival efforts began, around 2000 people are believed to be speaking the language.
Cornish (“Kernewek”) is spoken in Cornwall in southwestern Britain. Like Manx, Cornish currently has around 2000 speakers.
Cymraeg ( Welsh) is spoken primarily in Wales and the Welsh colony in Patagonia, Argentina. There are also speakers in England, Scotland, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and the US.
Are Welsh and Irish Related?
Welsh and Irish are related in the sense that they are both Insular Celtic languages. In other words, they are Celtic languages that evolved in the British Isles. Insular Celtic divides into Brythonic (British) and Goidelic (Gaelic). The Welsh language is Brythonic, while the Irish language is Gaelic.
The Brythonic branch is also called “P-Celtic,” while the Goidelic branch is referred to as “Q-Celtic.” These labels came about because of how the words in each branch developed from Indo-European. Several words are common in each branch. However, on the P-Celtic (Brythonic languages) side, the “p” sound more frequently occurred in those words. The hard “k” sound was more prevalent on the Q-Celtic side.
On this note, another question people ask is, “Is Welsh Gaelic?” No, Welsh is not Gaelic. As mentioned earlier, Welsh is Brythonic. Which leads us to the question: Are the Irish Celtic or Gaelic? They are a Celtic people, but they speak Irish (“Gaelige”), which comes from the Gaelic language group. “Gaelic” can also refer to their culture (Gaelic games, for example).
Scottish Gaelic vs. Welsh
Many words in Scottish Gaelic and Welsh are cognate. Cognate words are those that evolved from the same source word over hundreds or thousands of years. However, since Scottish Gaelic and Welsh don’t belong to the same branch of Insular Celtic, there are more similarities between Irish and Scottish Gaelic, for example. Irish and Scottish Gaelic are both Gaelic languages, whereas Welsh is Brythonic.
Here’s a comparison of some related words in Scottish Gaelic and Welsh.
English
Gàidhlig (Scottish Gaelic)
Cymraeg (Welsh)
river
abhainn
afon
name
ainm
enw
soul, spirit
anam
enaid (also, the Welsh name “Enid” means soul; life)
bread
bairín
bara (the word for “bread” is “bara” in all three Brythonic languages: Welsh, Cornish, and Breton)
small
beag
bach, bychan
brother
bráthair
brawd
cheese
càise
caws
It’s interesting to see that although the words differ in Scottish Gaelic and Welsh, there are some similarities. The Gaelic words aren’t exactly like the Welsh, but they’re not entirely foreign, either. Having the English words there also makes a nice comparison. We can see that, for the most part, the English words are quite different than the Celtic ones. That’s because they evolved through the Germanic branch of the Indo-European language family. The words for “bread” and “cheese,” though, manage to be a little similar across the board with Celtic and Germanic alike!
Welsh vs. Irish Culture
As with Scottish Gaelic, a Welsh speaker would find it hard to understand Irish. They might be able to pick up a few words here and there, but this is another example of the differences between the Goidelic and Brythonic languages. After all, they had thousands of years to grow apart. Still, with Wales and Ireland within 300 miles of each other, there are certainly links between the two cultures. There’s a history there of helping one another.
Both countries take pride in their languages, the history behind them, and in keeping them alive. They do this through literature, cultural events, music, and policies in their respective education systems. According to the 2021 census, 17.8% of the Welsh population speak Welsh. In the Republic of Ireland, however, in 2022, the percentage of Irish speakers was 39.8%. In Northern Ireland, as of 2021, 12.4% said they had some ability to read, write, or speak Irish.
Similarities and Differences
Both the Welsh and Irish love their sports! In Ireland, Gaelic games like Gaelic football, hurling, handball, and rounders are the most popular. In Wales, rugby is the winner.
Welsh culture is known for its friendliness and hospitality; Irish culture is similar. Ireland is very well known for its food and drink. The Welsh are renowned for their music, customs, and festivals.
Wales is part of the United Kingdom and operates as a devolved constitutional monarchy. Ireland, however, is an independent nation with a unitary parliamentary republic form of government. It means that parliament runs the nation. (Note: Northern Ireland is not a part of the Republic of Ireland but is one of the four countries that make up the UK.)
Generally speaking, the Welsh and Irish are close with one another as fellow Celts and neighbors. They’ve been trading, swapping stories and songs, and helping each other when needed since at least the Iron Age. It’s a friendship that goes way back.
Now you understand the difference between “Celtic” and “Gaelic.” If anyone ever asks you, “Are the Welsh Celtic or Gaelic?” you can smile sagely and tell them that the Welsh are Celtic but not Gaelic since Welsh is a Brythonic language.
The era we refer to as “prehistoric Wales” comprises three periods: the Stone Age, Bronze Age, and Iron Age. What makes these ages prehistoric? They are the periods of human history that transpired before written records of events. For Wales, this is anything before 48 AD when the Romans invaded.
In terms of human occupation and settlement, prehistoric Wales covers the years from about 228,000 BC to 48 AD, when the Romans began their military campaign against the Welsh tribes. The timeline is based on the earliest human remains discovered in Wales, which date to 230,000 years ago—those found at Pontnewydd Cave just outside St. Asaph in North Wales. The period from 228,000 BC to 48 AD encompasses the Stone Age, Bronze Age, and Iron Age.
However, because the last Ice Age left the climate inhospitable until about 12,000 years ago, it wasn’t until the Mesolithic Period (Middle Stone Age) that people began to settle in Wales more permanently. This early settlement period continued into the Neolithic (New Stone Age) and concluded with the end of the Bronze Age in 800 BC. So, the prehistoric human settlement timeline in Wales runs from approximately 10,000 to 800 BC. This time span within prehistory has given us some of Wales’ most intriguing and mysterious ruins.
Prehistoric Wales: The Earliest Beginnings
When does the story of prehistoric Wales begin? Well, that depends on how far back you’d like to go. The tale of the place we now know as Cymru begins before Great Britain was even an island. 450,000 years ago, the peninsula began to separate from the continent of Europe. Caught in the throes of its current Ice Age, the area that would become Great Britain was more like a tundra in Siberia than the green hills and fields we know today. The splitting away from the European land mass happened in two stages: 1) a separation by water and 2) a much later, complete separation of the land itself.
First, the chalk ridge between what is now Dover, England, and Calais, France, cracked when a lake flooded. This event breached what had been acting as a natural dam. As the Ice Age ended, the rising water completely filled the valley between the two areas. That was the point where Britain first lost its connection to the mainland.
However, it wasn’t until much later, in 6,100 BC, that the British peninsula broke away from the continent completely. A violent tsunami struck—one of the largest tsunamis ever to occur on Earth. It turned the lowland areas into what is now the North Sea and the southern marshlands into the English Channel. Britain became an island. A small part of it would one day become Wales.
A modest hunter-gatherer population of perhaps 5,000 called the island home. Although the tsunami no doubt took some lives, those who survived would leave behind artifacts and monuments to tell us stories of the prehistoric world they lived in.
Stone Age Wales
Although Wales didn’t exist as an entity as we know it today, it’s been home to many people since the most primitive times. Neanderthals settled in Wales as much as 230,000 years ago. Archaeologists found stone tools and bones of this extinct hominid species at Pontnewydd Cave near St Asaph. You can view this intriguing find at National Museum Wales .
Our ancestors, Homo Sapiens, arrived much later, near 31,000 BC. Although early hominid remains have been found all over Europe, the earliest known human burial remains were discovered in Wales. Excavation of the site in the sea cave on the Gower Peninsula revealed what came to be known as the “Red Lady of Paviland.” “She” actually turned out to be a man. His bones had been dyed red, and his fellows ritualistically and formally buried him. Most surprising of all is that this occurred around 33,000 years ago!
Prehistoric Sites in Wales
Wales boasts some truly incredible monuments left to us by prehistoric people, such as stone circles, cairns (mounds of stones), and dolmens. A “dolmen” is a megalithic structure created when its builders place a large, flat stone on several upright stones. Dolmens were built in Britain starting in the Neolithic Period , from about 4000 – 2500 BC.
Prehistoric Sites: North Wales
On Ynys Môn (the island of Anglesey), you can find Barclodiad y Gawres burial chamber. Its name translates to “The Giantess’s Apronful.” This dolmen is one of the country’s most impressive examples of its type.
Another burial chamber not to miss while visiting Ynys Môn is Bryn Celli Ddu—“the mound in the dark grove.” This Neolithic tomb is one of Wales’ most famous prehistoric landmarks. It also harbors a fascinating secret. Once a year, the sunrise of the summer solstice shines shafts of light down the passage and illuminates the inner chamber.
Bryn Cader Faner is a Bronze Age ring cairn that lies east of the small village of Talsarnau in Snowdonia National Park. Its name translates to “hill fort flag” in English, with the complete meaning being closer to “the hill of the throne with the flag.” The builders certainly positioned it to make a statement. Looming on the brow of a rise in the remote moorland, it bares its jagged teeth against the horizon as one approaches. This wonder of the prehistoric age consists of a mound of stones surrounded by 15 upright slate pillars. Initially, there may have been as many as 30 standing stones. This site most likely contained a grave beneath the cairn. However, there’s evidence that treasure hunters removed its contents in the 19th century.
Prehistoric Sites: South Wales
At the other end of the country, you’ll find another top-rated and mysterious attraction: Pentre Ifan. Pentre Ifan translates to “Ivan’s Village.” While Pentre Ifan was originally covered with earth to contain the stone burial chamber inside, you can now view it as a group of standing stones. The giant capstone (stone placed on top) appears insecurely balanced. However, it has remained there for 5,000 years!
This dolmen’s “bluestones” are the same material from which Stonehenge in Wiltshire, England is made. These bluestones get their name from their bluish color when freshly broken or wet. They’re composed of volcanic and igneous rocks. The most common types of bluestones are dolerite and rhyolite. Historians still don’t know how the ancient people did it. Yet, somehow, they transported the large stones from Preseli hills in what is now Pembrokeshire, Wales, and erected them on Salisbury Plain in southern England 140 miles away.
Mynydd Y Gelli, sometimes called the “Welsh Stonehenge” or “Rhondda Stonehenge,” is located in Gelli, Glamorgan. It gets its name from one of the mountains surrounding the Rhondda Valley. The burial site is a complex circle of stones about 30 feet in diameter. A low embankment surrounds it. Nearby are three cairns, one of which is in an unusual platform shape. A small standing stone, no longer upright, rests beside it.
After the dinosaurs disappeared, a new type of beast dominated the landscape: giant mammals. Herbivores and carnivores alike were massive. At one time, these megafauna lived alongside humans. They eventually went extinct due to the changing climate and human hunting. Not only were they unable to adapt quickly enough to warmer environments and vegetation differences, but they also had to contend with a new apex predator that could throw spears.
Animals by Period
Paleolithic : Prehistoric Wales’ animals of the Old Stone Age were massive compared to the wildlife you’ll find in the country today. Before 8,500 BC, the land was home to not only wooly mammoths but also to giant oxen (aurochs), giant deer, wooly rhinoceros, straight-tusked elephants, cave hyenas, saber-toothed cats, cave lions, and even hippos.
Mesolithic : From 8,500 to 4,000 BC, prehistoric forest started replacing the plains where these giant beasts thrived. During this period, smaller creatures like horses, boar, deer, and foxes began appearing in larger numbers. Meanwhile, the populations of larger animals of the Ice Age began to decline and die out. The native wild horses also go extinct during this period.
Neolithic: As more people settled in farming communities from 4,000 – 2,400 BC, we find the remains of cattle, pigs, and sheep added to the timeline.
Bronze Age: From 2,200 to 700 BC, farming became even more popular, and livestock raising grew considerably. People still hunted deer, boar, ducks, and other water birds. Traders from Eurasia reintroduced horses to the British Isles. Along with cattle, settlers used horses for both transportation and food.
For more prehistoric Wales facts , Cadw, Wales’ historic environment service, has a wealth of information on the subject.
It’s been almost 2,000 years since the period we know as prehistoric Wales drew to a close. However, this exciting age is hardly lost to us. The mysterious monuments of these ancient people still challenge historians as to their construction. They hold us captive with their otherworldly energy. And most importantly, they let us glimpse the idea that almost anything is possible.
Why is ancient woodland Wales so rare and valuable? Forests with trees dating back to at least the year 1600 cover only about 2 – 2.5% of the United Kingdom. However, these woods are the most biodiverse habitats in the country, are home to native Welsh broadleaf trees, and contribute to the environment in unique ways.
Why are areas designated “ancient woodland Wales” special? These forests, which date back at least 400 years, are the most complex environment in Great Britain. They protect wildlife, help the environment through soil and air quality, and preserve another piece of Wales’ rich history.
Wales’ forests provide a haven for more threatened wildlife species than anywhere else on the island. The undisturbed soils and centuries of decaying wood in these forests have created the perfect climate for fungi, slugs, snails, and insects. Many species of birds and mammals also reside in these natural sanctuaries.
These ancient woodlands also positively impact the environment by removing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and preventing land erosion. They can help keep large earthworks in place. Many ancient woods are also important archaeological sites that preserve the past. Stone circles, dolmens, burial mounds, and other structures have been found in these living history museums made of ash and oak.
The Four Classifications
There are four different classifications of ancient woodland.
“Ancient semi-natural woods” are those that have developed naturally. Humans didn’t plant the original woodlands, although people used timber from these forests. These areas have had continuous woodland cover for at least 400 years.
“Plantations on ancient woodland sites” are ancient forests in which the trees have been cut down and replanted with non-native species. Usually, these non-native species are coniferous (pine trees, etc). However, these areas still have the complex soil found in ancient woodland. Environmentalists are working to restore these areas.
“Restored ancient woodland sites” are forests that once contained more than 50% non-native species but now contain less than 50% due to human efforts at restoration. They’ve had continuous woodland cover for at least 400 years. While people have restored these forests to a more natural condition, the woods aren’t necessarily in good ecological condition or wholly restored.
“Ancient woodland sites of unknown category” may fall into any of the three mentioned categories. It may be a forest that is going through a transition phase. Therefore, it may contain shrubs, trees that have been removed, young trees, or ground that is being made ready for planting.
Ancient Woodland Inventory
The first inventory maps date back to the 1800s. In more recent times, the Forestry Commission Wales performed an initial count of Wales’ ancient woodlands in the 1980s. At that time, the count recorded 62,000 hectares or 153,205 acres. However, newer digital mapping in 2012 showed that ancient woodland Wales is much larger than that. This new count shows 95,000 hectares or 234,750 acres. It also means that the ancient woodland areas make up 30% of all forests in Wales.
There are 20 woodland Special Areas of Conservation, which are protected habitat areas in the United Kingdom. These protected sites in Wales also belong to the Natura 2000 network of European protected wildlife sites . These areas are safeguarded by European and international law.
Why is this significant? Well, for several important reasons.
Forestry Commission Wales is responsible for protecting these forested areas from development. A complete ancient woodland map helps guarantee that no sites become neglected or developed due to improper zoning.
The trees in Wales’ ancient forests date back at least 400 years. Some of the most common native tree species include ash, oak, and birch. Other ancient woodland tree species include beech, sycamore, alder, rowan, cherry, hazel, hawthorn, and holly.
Ancient woodland Wales is one of the country’s most abundant wildlife habitats. These woods are also home to more threatened species (at least 152) than anywhere else in the United Kingdom.
Are Areas Designated as Ancient Woodland Wales Left Completely Wild?
The short answer is “no.” No ancient woodland in Wales has been left completely undisturbed. However, there are areas where the woodland is semi-natural, meaning that some parts of it have been left relatively undisturbed.
However, these areas are managed responsibly, and their resources are used with care. Ancient woodlands provide a certain amount of sustainably sourced timber. Because of this use, the woodlands also give people jobs, which helps the economy.
How These Natural Areas Help the Environment
By leaving enough of the forests in their natural state, the woodlands also aid in an action called “carbon sequestration.” Carbon sequestration is when carbon dioxide is removed from the Earth’s atmosphere, captured, and stored. There are two types: Biological and Geological. In biological carbon sequestration, carbon dioxide is captured and stored in vegetation, soil, and oceans. With geological carbon sequestration, carbon dioxide is secured and stored underground in rock formations. This second type is generally done industrially via machinery, whereas biological capture happens naturally.
When Wales’ ancient woodlands are protected and managed sustainably, their ecosystem remains strong in helping to remove carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. In fact, grasslands, rangelands, and forests capture about 25% of the world’s carbon emissions. Since the buildup of CO2 and other greenhouse gasses can contribute to climate change , the forests’ natural air-cleansing properties are vital to life on Earth.
How Can I Find Ancient Woodland Near Me?
Each country in the United Kingdom keeps its own records of ancient forests. For an ancient woodland UK map, you can use Woodlandr to locate an ancient woodland near you by entering your postcode. This database covers ancient woodland Scotland, Wales, and England.
To find a complete list of ancient woodland in Cymru, please consult an ancient woodland Wales map . Below are a few examples of sites that are well worth the drive.
South Wales
Tenby, Wales, was built in the Middle Ages and is still enclosed by a remarkably intact wall. In this charming seaside town, you can find Pembrokeshire Coastal National Park . It’s the only national park situated on the coast anywhere within the United Kingdom. Within it is Pengelli Wood, an ancient oak woodland with clearly marked footpaths. Pengelli Wood is one of the largest ancient oak forests remaining in Wales.
Ty Canol is another forest in the national park, and this one dates back some 6,000 years. The landscape is atmospheric and mysterious, with its moss-covered trees and rocks. A 2.5-mile circular walking trail will take you around the wood and through a small section of it. You’ll continue on a dirt track once you reach the ancient woodland from the park.
Wentwood Forest is another of South Wales’ ancient woodlands. This enchanted place is steeped in folklore and hosts a stone circle older than Stonehenge, which was built around 4,500 years ago. There’s also a Bronze Age burial mound about a mile to the north of Gray Hill.
North Wales
In North Wales, Erlas Black Wood is a small ancient woodland of about 2.5 hectares enclosed by the Wrexham Industrial Estate. This wood is quite an exciting find. It survived the Second World War when factories were built in the surrounding area to make artillery. It’s home to some very large oak and ash trees. Erlas Black Wood also provides the perfect environment for delicate and beautiful spring flowers such as yellow lesser celandines, wood anemones, dog violets, and vivid magenta early purple orchids.
Few people know that North and Mid Wales boast ancient woodlands known as “Celtic Rainforests.” Yes, those are really a thing! While the biggest rainforests are located in the tropics, rainforests exist in cooler climates, too. Most of Wales’ Celtic Rainforests are located in the river valleys of rural Ceredigion, Powys, and Gwynedd. A few to check out are Llechwedd Einion , Coed Cwm Einion woodland, and Coed Felenrhyd and Llennyrch .
The Din Lligwy prehistoric Celtic settlement in Anglesey, Wales, is surrounded by ancient woodland. Here, amidst oak and ash trees, you’ll find an Iron Age village, a Neolithic burial chamber, and an old and quite charming stone church.
How to Identify Ancient Forest
If you’re out for a stroll and spot a lovely forest you’d like to explore, how can you tell if it’s ancient woodland? You may have to consult an ancient woodland inventory to get confirmation. However, below are a few indicators of whether you’ve encountered an ancient woodland.
Trees: Guelder rose, Lime, small-leafed, Wild service tree, Spindle
Ferns: Scaly male fern, Hard fern, Hart’s tongue fern
Lichens: Barnacle lichen, Lungwort lichens
Slugs: Lemon slug
Evergreen perennial: Pendulous sedge
Fungus: Hazel gloves fungus
Insects: Violet click beetle
The boundaries of ancient woodland may resemble ditches or banks. They might have overgrown hedges, boundary trees, or correspond with parish boundaries on old maps.
There may also be evidence that humans used it in earlier times. Some telltale signs include the remains of mine pits, furnaces and hearths used for roasting ore, and trees that show signs of being cut back.
The only drawback of stumbling upon an ancient woodland is that you may not want to leave! But don’t worry. Sometimes, you can find areas in woodland Wales for sale, like in 2023 when 28 acres of ancient Pembrokeshire coastal woodland went on the market.
I wrote this for my blog yesterday and, in the process, learned some really fascinating things. Sharing for anyone else who loves a bit of ancient history!
Neolithic Wales was a time of transformation. During this era, the nomadic hunter-gatherers who lived in ancient Wales were mostly wiped out or absorbed by immigrant farmers from the Mediterranean — an event that changed not only the way people lived but the landscape of Wales itself.
The time period we refer to as “Neolithic Wales” began in approximately 4000 BC and lasted until 2400 BC. Archaeologists also call this the Neolithic period or the “New Stone Age.” It wasn’t just that the inhabitants of Britain began farming or using stone tools at this time that brought about a change. It’s more about how and why this transition came about.
About 6000 years ago, there was a migration of farmers from the Mediterranean to the British Isles. These farmers were the ancestors of the people living in what now is Turkey. When they arrived in Britain, these prehistoric European agrarians found a small population of hunter-gatherers already living on the island, and both groups soon integrated.
The incoming farmers, however, brought with them not only greater numbers in terms of their population size but also better tools and more advanced ways of doing things. Hence, the “New Stone Age” began. They mingled with and eventually mostly absorbed the hunter-gatherers into their own group. The more primitive people learned to farm, raise animals for food, and build homes to live in permanently rather than roam the land.
New People, New Ways, and Megalithic Monuments
Before the New Stone Age, Neolithic Wales’ people were hunter-gatherers who moved from place to place and found shelter where they could. They built temporary dwellings and stayed in caves or other suitable places. These nomadic peoples looked distinctly different from modern Welsh people, with medium brown to black skin and hazel, blue, or blue-green eyes.
The Mediterranean farmers who migrated to ancient Wales around 4000 BC were also dark-complected with medium brown skin and dark brown hair and eyes, according to data collected from archaeological finds. Research suggests that they didn’t mix well with the inhabitants of Britain and, within a short period, wiped most of them out.
Some of the decline of the existing population could have been due to new diseases being introduced. There’s also evidence that the takeover may have been a violent one. In some places, the hunter-gatherers and farmers may have co-existed peacefully. At least a small portion of the hunter-gatherers must have integrated, as some people in Wales today carry DNA that traces back 10,000 years to the last Ice Age.
Farming in Wales in the New Stone Age
By about 3500 BC, many people in Neolithic Wales were farming. In wooded areas, they cleared forests and used the lumber to build wooden houses. Beyond their villages, they cleared additional land where they could plant their crops.
The farmers grew wheat, barley, beans, peas and flax. They ground the wheat and barley into flour. They used the flax plant to make linen cloth for clothing, a versatile addition to furs and animal skin garments. However, they continued to find certain plants by foraging, like berries, nuts, and mushrooms.
Another thing these Neolithic farmers in ancient Wales did differently than the hunter-gatherers was the amount and kinds of animals they kept. They raised cattle, sheep, goats, and wild pigs that they domesticated. All of these provided meat, but the cows also gave the farmers milk and cheese. The farmers could produce cashmere from the goats’ fleece and, of course, wool from the sheep. They also kept dogs as pets and guardians to protect them against some of Neolithic Wales’ animals, such as wolves and wild boars. Dogs also worked the farms, herding sheep and cattle.
Neolithic Wales’ history is significant because these early farmers shaped and changed the land into what it is today. By clearing trees for growing crops, making grazing areas for livestock, or luring game animals, the soil’s nutrient levels fell over time. The earth also became more acidic. In these conditions, plants such as heather, gorse, and coarse grasses thrived. As the heathland was also being constantly used, it never turned back into woodland, giving much of Wales the landscape it has today.
Grave Mounds and Stone Circles
The people of this period built stone structures for religious purposes and to honor their dead properly. Cromlechs, cairns, and stone circles are among some of the megalithic structures that tell us more of their story.
Cromlechs are tombs made of several upright stones with a flat stone laid on top of them. The stones were then covered over with a mound of earth, with the inside being left hollow. There are other meanings of the word “cromlech,” but the above definition is the one that most applies to Wales.
A cairn is a mound of stones covering a burial chamber, such as a cromlech, or a cairn could be laid directly over graves beneath the earth.
Stone circles came later in time than cromlechs. Stone circles of varying sizes were often erected around cairns. Sometimes, they may have been constructed to denote places of worship and other times to mark areas for meeting and trade.
Wales is home to many examples of the megalithic structures above, some remarkably well-preserved. Some of these include Bryn Celli Ddu, Lligwy, Parc le Breos, Carreg Coetan Arthur, Bodowyr , Dyffryn Ardudwy, St Lythans (“Gwal y Filiast” in Welsh, which translates to “Kennel of the Greyhound Bitch”), and Pentre Ifan Burial Chambers.
Pentre Ifan, for example, dates back to about 3500 BC. It is perhaps the largest and one of the most intact of Wales’ Neolithic portal tombs. A “portal tomb” is a burial chamber with two large stones on either side of an entrance. A huge “capstone” (stone placed on top) is then laid across the upright stones. Portal tombs are also called “dolmans.” In Pentre Ifan’s case, the capstone is thought to weigh close to 16 tons. For that reason, it has a third upright stone supporting it from the back. Even though it appears precariously balanced, the monument has stood firm for the last 5000 years.
There are also similar Neolithic sites in Scotland and elsewhere in the British Isles. One of the most famous and insightful examples of a Neolithic stone house built in a place where wood was scarce is Skara Brae in Orkney.
Click here for a map of ancient sites in Wales . Cadw (Wales’ Historic Environment Service) and Amgueddfa Cymru (National Museum Wales) are also excellent resources for ancient artifacts, prehistoric finds, and many fascinating historical gems from Wales’ past.
Timeline
Neolithic Wales’ timeline spans from roughly 4000 to 2400 BC. This means it began 3000 to 3400 years before the ancient Celts set foot on the island.
4000 BC : Waves of farmers from the area near the Aegean Sea arrive in Britain.
3500 BC : Many people in Wales and across the British Isles are now farming and raising livestock. They also made simple pottery and established more permanent settlements.
3300 BC : Early builders erect some of the first henges and stone circles.
3000 BC : People construct some of the first passage graves. More land is cleared for farming as settlements spread.
2400 BC : The Beaker People arrive in Wales. Metalwork improved with the introduction of bronze, and more sophisticated tools and weapons were developed.
The Neolithic Period for this region drew to a close when a second wave of farmers—the group we now refer to as the “Beaker People”—immigrated to the British Isles. They came from Europe around 4400 years ago, mainly from the Eurasian Steppe (grassland extending about 5000 miles from present-day Hungary to Manchuria). The Beaker People are so-called because of the bell-shaped pottery they made. Their newer technologies of crafting weapons and tools from bronze marked the beginning of the Bronze Age in Britain.
Neolithic Wales: Facts of Note
In summary, 5 significant ways life changed for people in Wales during the New Stone Age were:
Agriculture replaced the hunter-gatherer lifestyle, meaning people could now establish more permanent dwellings and live together in growing communities.
Over time, farming and animal husbandry altered the land by depleting the soil’s nutrient content and making it more acidic. The landscape went from woodland to cropland and eventually to heathland, which covers many parts of Wales today.
Keeping herds of cattle meant not only a plentiful meat supply but also that milk and cheese became staples in the diet.
Growing flax meant that linen cloth could be spun to make clothing. This durable, breathable, and easy-to-care-for fabric was a considerable advancement over garments made from animal hide.
Because people now lived in communities, they built stone structures to honor their dead, worship, meet for ceremonies or trade, and sometimes act as astronomical observatories. Bryn Celli Ddu, for example, is aligned to the midsummer sunrise. Many of these megalithic monuments were built before the great pyramids of Egypt!
If you’re a fan of ancient artifacts, archaeology, and megaliths, you may enjoy visiting some of Wales’ most intriguing places. The Old Stones of Wales is a helpful field guide from a series that covers these historic sites in the country.
